The creation of a pancake or platter tutu is a lengthy process that takes even a seasoned costume designer like Tracy Dorman countless hours. To begin, Dorman will create the design concept, often in discussion with the choreographer, which is used to determine the style, color scheme, and specific details for the character and the scene in which they appear. Once the design has been chosen, fabric is selected. For a traditional tutu, 15 yards of net are needed for the skirt alone, double if made with tulle. Additional fabric is needed for the panties, bodice, and overlay.

Once the fabric has been collected, Dorman begins with cutting and sewing outer casings to the underpanties. The panties are then marked to indicate where each layer of net will be attached. The net itself is cut into strips of varying widths (typically from 2”-15” wide), and arranged in piles, one for each layer of the tutu. Each layer consists of 4 to 6 lengths of fabric depending on its location on the tutu. Dorman scallops the ends to soften rigid edges, and gathers each layer into a pleat.

Next, the layers are stitched on to the panty from the bottom up, each layer being ironed flat as it is applied. When the top layer (the largest in diameter) is completed, the basque, created from the same material as the bodice for continuity, is attached. The basque is lined with twill or a similar fabric for durability and a waistband, often made from ribbon, is sewn to the top. Next comes the difficult process of sewing the seams. First, the back seam is sewn, followed by the crotch where elastic is threaded through the outer casing to ensure a snug fit. To further develop the tutu’s flat shape, Dorman lays it flat and places heavy books on it overnight.  

With the end in sight, Dorman threads wire through the net casing within the layers of the tutu for support. Then, each layer is tacked by hand, “an obnoxious job,” according to the long-time costumer. The overlay, or the decorative top, is cut and hand-sewn to the top of the tulle layers. Embellishments, such as crystals, beads, or feathers are added to the overlay and bodice to enhance the design. Next, Dorman will sew a set of hooks and bars to the bodice and basque. Often, Dorman will add an additional row of hooks and bars to accommodate different dancers who may need to wear the same costume in a performance run. Shoulder straps are added, often dyed with tea or colored with make-up to match the dancer’s skin tone.The creation of a pancake or platter tutu is a lengthy process that takes even a seasoned costume designer like Tracy Dorman countless hours. To begin, Dorman will create the design concept, often in discussion with the choreographer, which is used to determine the style, color scheme, and specific details for the character and the scene in which they appear. Once the design has been chosen, fabric is selected. For a traditional tutu, 15 yards of net are needed for the skirt alone, double if made with tulle. Additional fabric is needed for the panties, bodice, and overlay.